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Kerala's First 3D Printed Building

Created as a showcase project, AMAZE-28, the single-room summer house, was successfully constructed within 28 days on the grounds of the Kerala State Nirmithi Kendra. The 3D-printed building at the Kerala State Nirmithi Kendra in Thiruvananthapuram. (Photo: Shekunj)  The inauguration of Kerala's inaugural 3D-printed structure, a 380-square-foot single-room summer house, is scheduled to take place on October 10 at the Kerala State Nirmithi Kendra (Kesnik) campus located in PTP Nagar, Thiruvananthapuram.  Conceived as a showcase initiative, the summer house named AMAZE-28 was successfully finished within a mere 28 days. This impressive project was executed by Tvasta, a construction technology startup based in Chennai, founded by alumni of IIT-Madras, who have entered into a memorandum of understanding (MoU) with Kesnik.  AMAZE-28 is perched upon a concrete foundation atop a gentle elevation within the Kesnik campus. Febi Varghese, the Director and Chief Executive Officer of...
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Solution of Filament Deflecting Upward on Extrusion

 If you are using fused deposition modeling (FDM) or fused filament fabrications (FFF) based 3D printers, then at some point in time, you must have faced or will face that the material being extruded upward direction or filament deflecting upward on extrusion. In this article, we will discuss the reasons and solutions for the material being extruded upward problem.

Reason and Solutions for Filament Deflecting or Curling Upward

Reason: Partial Blockage in Nozzle

You may have a partial blockage if your filament curls up as it exits the nozzle. For instance, if there is a small amount of dirt on one side of the nozzle, the filament can still extrude, but it will curl.

Solution

Debris on the INSIDE of the nozzle, as opposed to bits on the OUTSIDE, is what causes the filament to deflect. You can clean the exterior as well as you like, but it won't really change much. However, deflection is brought on by a break in the flow. Yes, stuff on the exterior does enable additional bits to stick, thus accumulation occurs. All of that is inside.

There are various options. You could try to clean the nozzle out with the needle. I personally wouldn't advise doing it. The softer brass can be scratched by the steel needle, which is NOT what you want. In any case, it typically pushes fragments further inside and dislodges them. While they may occasionally flow out as you extrude, they are equally likely to become lodged once more.

A "cold pull" is a more effective remedy and common "fix." The situation is simpler than it appears to be. Once you've had some practice, it becomes pretty simple and doesn't take very long. Much more effective at cleaning a nozzle's interior. Using a specialized cleaning filament makes it simpler, while regular filament can also be used.

What is Cold Pull and How to Perform it?

The cold pull also called atomic pull technique, uses a filament strand and deliberate temperature changes to clear or clean a nozzle without disassembling the entire device.

This process is picking up a glob of material and other small debris that are blocking the nozzle with a strand of filament that has a molten tip and dragging the strand out, ideally removing the clog and debris with it.

A few iterations of this cold pull will often resolve nozzle problems without the need to disassemble the nozzle and run the risk of harm or improper reassembly. So, if you have a clogged nozzle, this is typically the first thing you should try.

Reason: Unleveled Bed or Improper Nozzle Height

Sometimes there is an unleveled bed or the height between the nozzle and the print bed is not optimum.

Solution

Verify the height of the nozzle. Make sure the bed is level and place a piece of white or copier paper between the nozzle and the bed. When you attempt to slide the paper, there ought to be "some" pressure on it. This is a fantastic place to start; you may make changes to improve the filament's adhesion as you print. Make sure the bed is level as well.

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